Yea from reading up everyone here sais above 250hp you need to be forged, I'm only hoping for 200/220 with the tf035 so not bothered just yet
Well first I have to say ... I have not been there and done that! So yeah an as they say "talk is cheap!" but I, suppose I;m an old timer now?? But I was there back in the day when Tercelonline ... was KING of the hill for all things 4efte/5efte and those guys were making 300 hp with ASI (All Stock Internals) with either 4efte or 5efte's!
And GT Reva, for one said all you needed was a good tune and an E Manage blue for engine management! And the APEXI and FCD, stuff was well documented (at the time) for blowing crap up! That's all I knows. I just followed and listened. As at the time I was big into suspension stuff! And I somehow managed to spend a lot of time in "Court" with my little old 84 hp at the flywheel (smoke blowing 3ee.) Little puppy had nothing for power ... but if I got to corner first ... Good Luck getting by me, few did.
And yep there were a lot of high dollar 4efte and 5efte builds on there making a lot less then 300 hp?? And lot of them blew up?? So you know ... WTH??
Aww well moving on ... as a general rule a 1.4 inch stroke increase is worth about a 30 percent increase in engine torque. So 4efte vs 5efte will net that much easy! And the assorted rods ... well they say (ASI) is good for 300 hp??
If that is true ... it really does not matter (what rods) as long as you don't get engine knock, you wont blow ring lands and bend rods! So they said ...
Stronger internals ie forged builds is/can be a band aide for poor tuning. Uncontrolled Engine Knock can destroy any engine in
milliseconds, and if you can actually heard engine knock?? Well ... your dead meat!
So there is that, chasing big power without proper knowledge can leave a trail of carnage in it's wake?? Still as the saying goes, speed cost dollars so how fa$T do you want to go???
There are lots of ways to get there. And while not exactly cheap but still less expensive, than a full stand alone with "Knock Control and Auto Tune." Is the J&S safe guard. I think this is the one we would need.:
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html
It has been around for years and think?? That is one "we" would need?? It's about $500 bucks and is a standalone "knock Box."
It looks like it's about $600 bucks US.
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/orders.html
And you know ... those that "knew what they were doing" did not need it. But you know back in the day ... there were alot of blown up 4efte's and 5efte's making a lot less than 300 wheel hp and you know ... none of them were running a J&S safe guard ... just saying.
And even if one could find that Unicorn of a 5efhe engine?? Hard to find a decade ago so ... good luck today. The rods are still ... "Stock." Now you could "Race Prep" them, ... X ray them for cracks, shot peen them, grind off the casting flash and blue print, polish and balance and you have a set of race preped rods! Course for about 50 to 100 bucks more ... you can get set of a Scat Rods, so there is that.
And not to be more of a PIA, then I am already ... there is also "Cryo Treatment." :
https://www.300below.com/motorsports/
I have not had that done for engine parts myself but I have it done for brake rotors! And with Ceramic Brake Pads ... it works out great! Cuz I used my brakes uh hard and at the last second and we needed I needed them now! I never had an issue with "Frozen Rotors." :
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
Well OK maybe ... one issue, depending on where you live, if it gets seriously cold in winter ie well under 32 degrees i and your using "ceramics brake pads," it would be a really good idea to drag the brakes to get some heat into the pads and rotors "before" your first stop! The first winter ... I almost blew thru a stop sigh and right out onto High Way 50 with it's 70 mph traffic. I am only about four houses away from it so, no time to heat the brakes up?? That was exciting! But that was more about the Pads than the rotors but hey now I know so ... I'd drag the brakes to get heat into them before the stop sigh, in the winter.
Ok, enough rambling for now.