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lol at least you got through in the end

what type of clutch and pressure plate is in your car?

pray to god and drop Jay a PM :)

we've done it like Jay explained above, removing it from the top/above however, additionally, we disconnect the engine from the gearbox and remove all the ancillary stuff (PS pump, turbo, intake/exhaust manifolds, alternator, ac pump, etc.) to make it lighter and easier to maneuver, before...

yeah, as Jay indicated, check your engine mounts/brackets are you hearing any banging/clunking noises when moving off in 1st gear? just exploring other thoughts, does it shake on idle? do you have uprated engine mounts?

yeah, i saw a friend's ORC flywheel holes elongated/slotted to fit the 5e,,it worked great with no issues--though the machine shop indicated the metal was extremely hard compared to the usual OEM flywheel i got lucky enough to find the required 3E flywheel locally (free of cost lol)....,my...

persons have reportedly redrilled 4efte flywheels with no issues---this is done by reputable machine shops,,,, you will need the 5e crank bolt pattern from a 5e flywheel/flex plate/flex plate spacer. PS, i have not done it personally because it doesn't sit well with me

212mm 3E flywheel,,,,, 4efte TRD sports/organic clutch,,,,,, 4efte TRD pressure plate if you search the site, the part number is available for the 212mm 3ETE flywheel

welcome to tgtt.... feel free to look around as the site has a ton of information and the members are usually helpful the car looks great,,enjoy it

i'm not sure if that brand is still around today many owners use BC Racing or Meister coilovers nowadays

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/ep82-rear-seat-sections.111794/#post-1176336

seems you may have gotten to the bottom of the issue---fingers crossed PS--time to decide if you're going with a ct9 or tfo35 on it :D

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/fmic-comparisons-king-thread.20735/ there may still be a few pictures with FMIC set ups in this tread

to expand on Skiny's etc.---spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor, coil, depending, you could start with the cheap/easy ones first---rotor arm, dizzy cap, spark plugs, king lead & spark plug wires, connections/wiring/grounding, then get to testing/checking the more expensive...

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/4efe-vs-4efte-engine-block-differences-for-forged-engine-build.111498/ may be this tread may be a good place to start

i prefer the ARP head bolts...they may not facilitate the maximum potential power like the studs will, but the head bolts are a direct fit and allow decent power/boost anyways i don't like the additional dremel/shaving work required to fit the studs, particularly on a "daily" vehicle---if it...

you're making steady progress

additionally, mamba, kinugawa, and a few other companies sell complete Subaru fitment ball bearing spec turbos---gt28/td05 specs, etc.

yeah...it does to some degree but i have a 5e, so the pick up isn't too bad.....its my compromise for gearbox longevity. i see you're playing some russian roulette with your gearbox :) ...use quality gear oil and keep it fresh, hopefully that will help extend its life

i was going to mention this